Friday, June 5, 2009

Back Home


There And Back Again: A Bike Trip Reflection on the Way Back Home

Despite my best intentions, deep down I knew I wouldn't be able to keep blogging once I got to NY. The blog and the bike trip were incontrovertibly linked, and until this morning I hadn't gotten on a bike since May 2. Besides, although seeing friends and family was great, it didn't seem particularly news-worthy. Not by the standards of a cross-country bike trip anyway. And when it comes down to it, writing about anything other than biking would force me to face one undeniable fact that even now I have difficulty saying out loud: the bike trip is over.

Still, intimations of the adventure linger. There's the physical evidence of course, the persistent weird biker tan, the many small leg muscles that still occasionally pop to the surface (mostly when I get up off the couch too quickly). But there are other reminders too. I can't comfortably drive over 55mph. Even that seems wicked fast. I'm never in a hurry to do most things, a new development that I hope sticks. The slower pace of the biking life had a certain--I guess I would call it harmony. I felt in tune with the world around me, and with myself. Though my bushy beard and crazy hair are gone, thankfully a little of that seems to have stuck around.

But much else from the past 4 months continues to fade, and each time I go to scratch my face and find stubbly cheek instead of mussy nest, another dose of reality sets in. I know that soon the things I've forgotten about our trek will outnumber my accurate memories, replaced by romanticized fish stories and vague poetic longing. In a word, nostalgia. Not that I'll quickly forget how difficult much of the bike trip was, nor can words express how wonderful it is to be back in my Nicolina's arms. But as Seneca said, "things that were hard to bear are sweet to remember." Only a month after, there's already much about the bike trip I miss.

Last Sunday all these thoughts and feelings came flooding through my mental living room as I boarded the first of three planes that would take me back to California. Flying was not my original plan (nor even my back up), and certainly not the ideal end cap to an epic 4000+ mile journey. But reason and logic outweighed whimsy, so at 9:45am (Eastern Standard Time) I found myself seated in coach, bemoaning my pathetic resignation to the cheapest/quickest/least mysterious way home. To boot, "cheapest" was at the top of my priority list. I'd be getting to San Jose the same day, but 15 hours and two layovers later I would be tiredly wondering if it might have just been quicker to bike back.

One thing flying all day and biking all day have in common is lots of time to think. It was between Newark (layover #1) and Houston (layover #2) that I realized something: my route home through the air was roughly following the route we'd planned/improvised for the bike trip. I took some time to consider this new perspective. And as though on cue, a pre-movie commercial came on the little airplane television above my head. It began with this G.K. Chesterton quote (don't give me too much credit, I had to look it up): "A traveler sees what he sees, a tourist sees what he has come to see." I'd never really thought about it before, but until this bike trip I'd seen much of the world as a tourist. I planned trips to see things I was interested in and hoped (okay, expected) to have fun along the way. And I did, both see things I wanted to and have a great time. In fact I've taken many trips as a tourist, and I've never once been disappointed.

But biking across the country was different. Not just because of the route we were taking or how we were getting there (although I can't say enough praise for biking)--but mostly because of the way we were getting there. We were travelers, and we were traveling for no other reason than the experience of doing it. I'll never forget so many of the things I saw, but I also never could have planned to see them. Like so many great things in life, the most memorable parts of the trip were often a complete surprise, and as travelers we kept ourselves open to welcome these surprises, whenever and wherever they came.

As we landed in Houston and taxied to the gate, our plane crossed a bridge over Interstate 10. Now if you don't fly often, let me tell you that this is unique. Not many airports have tarmacs on which planes drive--not fly--but drive on bridges over highways. I looked out the small window down on four lanes of traffic, and the generous shoulder on the eastward side, and the huge green sign identifying the road. "We biked on that!" I shouted in my head so loud I actually looked around to see if anyone had heard me. I felt for a moment like I was watching a movie about myself, in which serendipitous moments like these are used to really drive the point home. Emotion washed over me. I suddenly remembered biking to Kent, and the practically nothing of a gas station/"convenience" store we found, and helping the clerk look for his mischievous quick kid, and Dick and Sue and their flat tire the skeleton of a schoolhouse where the four of us made camp and enjoyed some rare company on a windy March night. When I think about it, I remember we were hoping Kent would be bigger, and we were uncertain about where we should camp, and we were tired and in Texas and ready to be in Austin, finally. But my memories are not accompanied by the stress and fatigue I know I was feeling (my journal says so). In fact my smile cannot be contained. I will spend the next 4 hours, the last leg of my 4-month round-trip comparing the flight to the bike, the view from the clouds to the view from the road, poignantly realizing over and over how lucky I am, because most people have only seen all these things, this country, one way.

As we make our final descent into San Jose, I struggle to identify what I'm feeling. A host of thoughts and emotions take turns being on top. I know I'll soon settle back in to the rhythm of life as it was, and before long I'll rely more on my journal or the blog than my memory for accurate accounts of the trip. But I also know that an essence of this adventure will always be in me, and that what I've taken from this experience is no more an accomplishment than a gift. I will try to say this with as little corniness and sap as possible, but if you are reading this you need to know, that I know I could not have done this without you. As much as anything else about the bike trip, the overwhelming support and love we received came as a complete surprise. I believe anyone could do what we did, and many would do much more, if they were lucky enough to have the kind of friends and family that Joe and I have. I owe so much to so many, and in years to come I will try to repay--but for now, just this: Thank you all, for everything. I hope your part in this journey gave you even the smallest fraction of the treasures mine gave me.       




Sunset

As the sunsets in Nevada I realized it was really the sunset of the
trip. Still lots of people to thank and to write about buy I will be
in Santa cruz in less than 24 hours. Many reasons while I will be
happy to be home but it's always hard to end an adventure and this one
was a doosy. I still need to do some top five lists and compile the
exact mileage but it will be from my computer and not the iPhone.
Probably the thing I'm dreading the most is looking for a job. Not
gonna be easy but I'm sure I'll find something to pay the bills. Let
me know if you have any leads.

Monday, June 1, 2009

The Rocket City



I honestly could not think of the last time I was in my hometown of Rock Springs Wyoming (some pics above). Somewhere on the order of three years. It actually felt kind of good to drive thru the town and see all the new growth, including a little 9 hole disc golf course that I need to go play in the morning. Great to go for a walk in the desert, where I spent a good portion of my childhood. And amazing to hear the afternoon thunder showers roll thru town. Like a lot of the places I've visited on this trip, I am here at a great time of year. This time of year is really the best time to be in Rock Springs, the desert is in bloom, the winds haven't been too bad, and the high altitude sun hasn't been scortching. Tomorrow I am off to Idaho Falls, which will be my last scheduled stop on my whirl wind trip.

I need to thank some sponsors. Wild Bill, who is a friend of Brian's and who I have met on a couple of occasions and our good friends Bill and Heather have been the amazing sponsores of the last week or so. Heather was instrumental in talking us into the trip, as she went East to West a number of years ago and let Brian and I watch the movie her friends made of the trip. Thanks Heather!

Rock Springs pics

Saturday, May 30, 2009

westward ho

Well I've made it back to the mountain west and have been having a
great time catching up with long lost friends. I've also made up for
the lack of disc golf on the bike trip by playing at least 18 holes
everday for the past week. I'm now back in Wyoming (state capital in
pic) and heading towards the place if my birth. Will be in Rock
Springs sometime today.

Monday, May 25, 2009

The flat land

I had never been to Bloomington IL before and boy is it flat. Had a
great time catching up with an old friend from high school and today I
hope to actually make some good progress west. Got some disc golf in
yesterday which was nice but the Midwest is already hit and humid and
again an again I realize we made a good choice in the time of year we
biked. Don't think I could have handled the heat.
Thanks to Corin, and the Willets (can't wait to see how ollie has
grown) for sponsoring the last few days.
Looking forward to seeing folks in Colorado and Wyoming but I'm
getting close to being ready to be home.


joe

Sunday, May 24, 2009

Chicago

Enjoyed a nice visit with an old friend from my days of working at The
Old Baldy Club in Saratoga WY. Audra and her husband Jason have a nice
place about 3 miles north of wrigley field. Was great to catch up and
now I'm off to Bloomington IL.
The pic is of the Chicago skyline from their deck but I'm not sure how
it turned out.

Friday, May 22, 2009

Another state

Well I added another state to my travels. My aunt had a retirement
party in Minnesota, so I went up with my sister and niece to partake.
It was a quick trip but very fun and I got to talk to my aunts second
grade class about the bike trip. I explained the route using a giant
map and showed them a few pictures. No one fell asleep so that was
good and it was fun. Now I'm back in Wisconsin for one more night. Off
to Chicago tomorrow and then Bloomington IL, then finally west to
Denver. Spent more time in wisconsin then I had planned but it's been
great to be with my sister's family. My sister took some pics of me
and the second graders so I'll post those when she sends them to me.
The ones below are of the Madison bratfest which we hit on the way
home today.
Big thanks to some TNT alum. Josie, Kalyne, and Jay. It is safe to say
that brian and I would have never done this trip if it wasn't for Team
in Training. It got us in shape, filled our heads with crazy ideas
about athletic endevours and surrounded us with amazing supportive
friends. Can't wait to be part of the Team again.


joe

Bratfest

Bratfest 1

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Surprise

Watching a canoe race yesterday, Joy walked up and surprised me. No
idea she was coming.

Thursday, May 14, 2009

On the road with four wheels.

Yes the van has spinners and track lighting and a bed that Paco would
fit on very nicely, me however I sleep on the floor and it's not bad.
So let's recap the last few days. I actually wrote a post while in
Vermont but it got lost in cyper land(it's also forbidden to produce
milk. Anyone? Anyone?) anywho, the van and I headed up to Vermont to
visit Burlington and some ole friends. It was good to go back to
Burlington but boy did I forget a lot after five years. Thanks to
everyone in B town for being flexible with my drop ins. Then the van
and I headed to Wisconsin. Where we are currently. At my sisters and
my mom is also here. Tomorrow starts syttende mai, celebration of
norwegion independance, and stoughton wi has the biggest festivities
outside of Norway. I'll be here until Monday and then either heading
back to new York to pick up brian or heading towards Santa cruz.
Thanks to the Hottest Studben staff, michelle o'neil, and Serena &
jeff for sponsoring the wild days of purchasing a van, driving to
Vermont, and to wisconsin.
Some may be wondering if we've ridden our bikes at all? Well, not sure
about brian but I pulled ole blue out of the van in Burlington and
took him for a spin. A little on the squeaky side and he needs some
derailer adjustment but it was good to ride.


joe

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Finally our day into NYC

Ok. So before I tell you about our new wheels, I'll tell you about
NYC. We woke up on Friday morning only 9 or so miles from staten
island but research had shown us that we couldn't get over the outer
bridge by bike. We were offered a couple of rides but really felt that
if we had the time we should try to bike it. Well the same research
told us there was only one bridge you could take a bike on and that
was the Bayonne bridge, of course it was the furthest away and we had
to cross 3 other MAJOR bridges to get there. So the day started slowly
because we wanted to let morning traffic die down and because we got
stuck in a bagel shop talking to some great folks. We didn't get but
two miles down the road when brian got a flat. Only his second flat
since el paso, I think. The day was drizzling but brian made quick
with the change and we hit some back roads to get to our first bridge.
A bike lane! The first bridge had a freaking bike lane. Well maybe
this won't be so bad. In Perth amboy we stop at a bike shop to ask for
advice and this is where we got one of the ride offers. They didn't
have much advice on making it to Bayonne but we had a good time in
their shop, jerry and stan's bike shop. So we got out the iPhone and
picked a route. Again we had to pass by bridges in order to find the
one with a ped walkway. Thru industrial land with big trucks and at
one point a garbage truck ballet of sorts we made it to the second and
third bridges. Identical bridges that have been around forever and I
don't think they even remember that they are supposed to have
walkways. For the most part the walkways were full of trash or dirt
and walking was challenging. The first bridge we had fun with but as
we hit the bottom it began to pour and the fun was no longer. Finally
we hit the other side with only one more bridge to go but we are
soaked and cold so we stop at the first thing we see, burger king,
NICE. We eat and try to warm up but it really dosent work, and it's
getting late so we head out. We get of the curb and Brian gives a "no
way". That's right kids flat number two. The bike gods did not want us
to finish our ride. He patched up a tube and we took cover as another
down pour came thru. Finally we our on to our last bridge and New
York. The last hurddle was two flights of stairs but they led to a
perfect ped pathway, that we illegally rode instead of walked and as
we crested the bridge we stopped to take our last border crossing pic.
Of course our day wasn't yet done as we had to bike half way across
staten island but at that point it didn't matter, we were done.
More to come on the 5 Burroughs and our new van.


joe

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Lots of fun with picture pages

Still working on putting comments on all the pics but I thought I would throw them up anyway. These are only mine so far... so keep checking back for more pics and I promise some stories about our last couple of rides in and around NYC will be coming in the next couple of days.

Austin to NYC



joe

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Lazy days

Pics and posts on our day into NYC and our ride in the five Burroughs
are coming. And though it won't be nearly as exciting we plan on
keeping the blog going until we get back to the Cruz.
Big thanks to Hillary Finnegan for sponsoring our days in NYC and to
Feldman for sponsoring our first lazy day.
I'm working on my travel plans, more than likely by train. Let me know
if you are up for hosting a stinky, hairy guy. Though the head might
get shaved today.


joe

Sunday, May 3, 2009

The waiting game.

Waitng for the start. Check out the cool shirts brian had made.

Friday, May 1, 2009

What a day!

Well, there is not enough time right now to tell you about our
"amazing" ride into New York today but let's start by just saying it
was the perfect capstone to our trip.
More details to come but first some sleep needs to happen as we were
up till one am burning wood.
A happy may day and thanks to the fabu Woodside for sponsoring today.
Night from NYC!


joe

New York, baby!

Thursday, April 30, 2009

Live on Sunday !

If you are wondering what you will do with your Sunday, two guys on
bikes has your answer. This sunday, may 3, 2009, we will be doing our
first ever (probably our only one) live broadcasting of our position.
It really won't be that exciting but if you are next to a computer
between 7 am and 3ish pm you can click "watch" the where are they link
on our blog and get our position as we tour the five Burroughs of new
York city. Position will be updated every ten seconds and you should
be able to see how fast or slow we are going. Not sure if the map will
auto refresh itself or not. If you watch for a minute and we don't
move try hitting the refresh or reload button on your browser. It's
crazy but we are almost there!!!


joe

Thanks

Two guys want to thank Imani Rupert for sponsoring the last few days.

I remember once Imani invited me over for some wine. It was late, I was tired, so I decided to go home to sleep instead. What a colossal mistake! Little did I know at the time, apparently Imani's apartment is like the happiest place in the world. Santa doesn't have elves to make his toys, he goes and gets them from Imani. I imagine a neon glow as I first step into her place. The walls look as though they're made of candy--I try one, they are! Entire rooms are devoted to individual video game consoles, maybe even to specific games! She has a music room where I find every instrument including the Gibson Les Paul in cherry red I have dreams about. I pick it up and play, and I sound awesome. I go to the kitchen. The fridge is stocked full of Nesquik and Sam Adams, and the freezer contains Ben and Jerrys' entire graveyard. I shut the fridge door and I'm startled by a cheerful gray haired woman smiling at me. It's Paula Dean, apparently she's there to make anything I want. "Something with butter, Paula, and what the heck drop somethin in the fryer, too. Don't forget to add some love!" "Comin right up, sugar," she replies. "Now you head into the living room and watch Michael J Fox and Christopher Loyd re-enact the entire Back To The Future trilogy live just for you." I go. I watch. It's life-changing. Afterwards the three of us take turns braiding each other's hair (I don't know, it's a dream). At dinner time the pizza guy delivers without ever being called, and now for dessert Ben and Jerry themselves take over Paula's kitchen and help me invent a new flavor. I call it "Imani's Apartment." It has everything good.

Bottom line: If Imani invites you over, for the sake of your childrens children and the stories you'll want to tell them--say yes. And take pictures to rub in my face.

Imani, we drank a thank-you glass to you last night, some light sparkling wine called Mi Ller L' ite. I think it's French.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

Good Old New Jersey

Wednesday.

Today was a gray day. From the get go the smell of coming rain was in the air, and the skies grew darker the nearer you looked to the horizon, like a reverse sunset. Whatever weather was in store, the wind was whipping it stiffly in our direction. I usually find some time during these kinds of days to turn to Joe and say, "Lovely fall weather we're having, eh?" And that's just what it was like. Halloween weather. A day like this you open your door and take one look at the sky, and you pause and then shiver a little out loud and then shut the door firmly and head for your nearest wool sweater. And slippers. And huge blanket. And as you put the kettle on you debate whether to watch The Goonies first or The Princess Bride. Or The Neverending Story. All great choices, and you'll pop them in the dvd player (or VHS if you're old school like me) one after the other, a new cup of tea and maybe a snack to start each new adventure. But one thing's for sure: no matter what you do today, you're not taking one step outside.
This is what I'm thinking as I pack up my damp tent this morning behind Wal-Mart. Yesterday it was 90--that was nice. The wind cuts easily through every layer, and my fortitude just doesn't seem to cut the mustard. Am I getting wimpy, I wonder? I mean it's not even raining yet! I've seen worse than this, like New Mexico when I woke up sick as a dog and the water bottles were frozen and we had to go climb a mountain. THAT was a rough morning. This is..

..well, this is three days from the end. I strap on my last bag and raise my head to scan the northern skyline. Not a good day for riding. Lazy movie day, yes. Carving a pumpkin, maybe. But not riding. The wind nearly blows me over as I make my first pedal strokes of the day. We're headed to central Jersey this morning. 65ish miles. Tomorrow a place called Cheesequake, but all I care about is it's 20 miles from Nicole's house. I can't believe we're this close. The rain starts before we've gone 10 miles, and it's cold rain. But I'm impermeable now, sustained by my mantra: Three days left, finish line in sight.

And so, we ride.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Some pictures

While my huge lunch digests I thought I'd throw up some pictures. This
is the sunset in ocean city. The sun rise was better but those are on
my actuall camera, not the iphone.

On the boardwalk

Mini golf

Ocean City is the mini gold capital of the world. I lost count of how
many courses we saw.

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Dinner at the Rio

Alicia and George were great company as we ate dinner at a local
bar(rio station) in Rio Grande NJ. And by great company I mean they
bought us dinner. Thanks you two, you rock.

3 states- one day

Heading out of Delaware and into New Jersey. Oh yeah and we biked into
Delaware today.

Monday, April 27, 2009

Ocean City MD

The view of the Atlantic from our hotel room. ( thanks dad) We dipped
our tires so we are officially coast to coasters.

Saturday, April 25, 2009

Squishing Nate's head

This is a horrible picture but it's the only one I have right now to
put up of Nate (brians bro)and norton(brians long time friend), who
drive down from western new York to hang for the weekend. So we took a
zero day today. Here is a list of things we did.
Cooked breakfast
Played wiffle ball
Had milkshakes and lunch in cape Charles
Played frisbee on the cape Charles beach
Cooked hot dogs over the fire
Listened to the crazy red sox Yankees game
Drank pbr
Played rummy 500 (Nate won)

Friday, April 24, 2009

Doumars

Back in 1904 abe doumar sold the first ice cream cone. 105 years later
we sit looking at the first cone machine and enjoying this American
past time.

The Ol' 96er

When we left Roanoke Rapids yesterday morning, we had 96 miles to the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel. "No problem-o," we thought, "we can break that up into two easy days." Well a disappointing lunch break at McDonald's (no refilliable drink station!) gave us time to call the campground we were planning to stay at part way to the bridge. Turns out you actually can call yourself a campground even if you don't allow camping. Must be a Virginia thing. Well, what are two guys to do? As the saying goes, seek and ye shall find. A flip of the sports page and, ho ho ho what's this? Norfolk (96 miles, remember) has a AAA baseball team?! And they're playing tonight?! Once again, it's almost like we planned it. Do we have time to get there, though? Can we make it another 40ish miles on time, for another almost 100 mile day? Only one thing two guys can do--we got on our bikes and rode.

And so I'm sure you're wondering what happened. Did they make the game? Did they ride 96 miles? The suspense is killing you.

Well I'm happy to say we watched the Norfolk Tide squeeze by the Durham Bulls 4-3 during a beautiful crisp night at the ballpark. We ate junk and watched sports to our hearts' content. And as for the 96 miles--well, there's nothing left there but fat and gristle. We'll eat that up today without trouble, taking our sweet time to get to the bridge and enjoying every bite. And who knows? Maybe when we get there they'll give us a free t-shirt.
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Thursday, April 23, 2009

Rip Tide

How about a ball game.

Tide vs. The Bulls in Norfolk VA

Ah beards

This pic was taken back in the Natchez trace. The other bearded wonder
is Ryan, and the pic was taken by Mandie. Thanks to Mandie for sending
us the photo, hope you two are doing great and let me know if you are
gonna head for hot springs, nc. You would love the sunnybank inn and
it's four course veggi meals. Mmmmm

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Happy Birthday Nicolina!

I just have to shout out to the most amazing and beautiful woman in the universe, who happens to be turning 25 today. If you are lucky enough to know her, do everything in your power to help make her day special. I love you baby!
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

Thank You, Mr. Kraus

Monday's good fortune was not just limited to a pavilion and a TV for the night, as it turns out. And not just limited to two guys on bikes, either.

Bryan Kraus was one of the first guys I lived with in college. We weren't roommates, but lived in the same suite in adjacent rooms. The guy who was his roommate was the polar opposite of Bry--huge, loud, annoying, often drunk (or something), and yet to give him a little credit, often wildly entertaining. I remember thinking then what a saint Bryan must be to put up with that, knowing there was no possible way he could have ever done anything bad enough to deserve it. Yet he took it in stride, in his quiet, observant, peaceful way, and in the end I think they were actually pretty well-suited roomies.

The passing years have brought many changes (as passing years often do). Bryan has chopped his flowing blond hair and is now sporting the shorter, cleaner cut endorsed by 'the man.' Beards have come and gone, not just for him but many of us who spent our mid-twenties (or early thirties in Ben's case, hehe) trying out new identities. Friends, too, have grown closer or drifted apart--to put it simply, life has happened, even though (as the saying goes), sometimes we were busy doing other things.

But some things haven't changed, and as Bryan and I have become great friends I've been able to see that he's the same kind, generous, all-around terrific guy who I met back in August 1999. Despite the fact that we now live in different corners of the country, have real jobs (okay, not me), and busy lives, Kraus and I along with Ben and Jimmy Acid (Mr. Beach to his students) have somehow remained close. We are like the Four Musketeers (including d'Artagnon), and of all the things I'm proud to have left college with my friendship with these guys tops the list.

Now I mentioned Bryan is generous, and not just 'cause he donated handsomely to our bike trip, which he did. When I talked to him for 45 minutes Monday night from the comfort of the Willis Pavilion, he shared some overwhelming news. In true Kraus form, he told me he intended to make a donation "in our honor" to the Leukemia Lymphoma Society, an organization that seeks a cure for and serves patients with blood-related cancers. He is donating six-hundred dollars out of his own pocket, which his company (Microsoft) is going to match! There really isn't a way to thank him enough, but I promise you I'll sure try. I am blown away and humbled, and I can only hope that people choose to judge me by the quality of my friends.

And Bry, if it doesn't work out with that woman you're seeing, there's a whole lot of ladies reading this forming a line right now.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

Monday, April 20, 2009

Another amazing place to stay.

Rolling into yanceyville nc we stopped at the very first place we see.
A beautiful purple old house called the Yancey House restaurant. I
wander around the building, looking for signs of life and it's clear
they have no plans of being open on Monday but I'm bummed cause the
place looks amazing. We take a seat at an outside table an brian finds
the phone number online and gives a call... No answer, no machine. Out
of the house steps an older guy, white beard, and overalls on "you
guys want anything to drink?". Water sounds great, we mumble, still a
littl shocked he just walked out of the house. "what no beer?" this is
when we knew we loved this place. The guy was mike willis and he turns
out to be the owner, yep they ate closed on Mondays but he sets us up
with some water, a very tasty lemon dessert and tells us about the
place. JB and Theresa you've got to come pay this place a visit, it
just got voted one of the top ten dinners in all of NC. Mike told us
we could stay in the pavilion, complete with bathroom and tv. It may
well be one of the coolest places we've stayed and the fact that it's
sprinkling and I'm not getting wet is the cherry on top.

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Winston-Salem

We didn't really know we would be coming thru Winston Salem until about 2 days ago, which was a nice surprise because my friends from Semester at Sea, JB and Theresa just happen to live here. Been great to see them for the few short hours and though it is very tempting to stay, after the hopefully successful purchase of a new back tire for Brian, we will hit the road again. It is hard to believe that we have less than two weeks before we hit NYC and do the 5 Boroughs bike tour. What is even more crazy is that we really don't have a plan after that. What will we do? Who will we see? How will we get back to the Cruz?  All good questions and I'm sure the answers will surprise us and delight us but they will have to wait, because my nice warm bed (for the night) is calling my name. And chances are good, I'll sleep better than I did behind the K-Mart. 
Night from Tobacco Country.

joe

Wonderful view.

Thought I would share our amazing view from last night.

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Top Ten Things Lowrie Can Do With Time Off

For you fellow Red Sox fans out there news of Jed Lowrie's potentially season-ending injury is probably bumming you out (although he could be hitting better.) Well here's a special two guys on bikes top ten list to lift your spirits, courtesy in large part to our Saturday ride. Enjoy...

With at least 15 days off, Jed Lowrie might be wondering how to fill his free time. I have some suggestions..
10) Eat some deer-meat-chili with a religious biker (motorcycle) dude
9) Spend hours at McDonald's refilling his 1 dollar any size drink
8) Have his bat annointed with holy oil, once again by biker dude
7) Drive up and down Hwy 70 trying to count the hills
6) Try to figure out if Toto had any other songs besides "Africa" and "Roseanna"
5) Figure out where that smell is coming from
4) Watch "Paul Blart Mall Cop" over and over trying to spot the two funny parts
3) Let pitcher Josh Beckett practice hitting beer cans off his head
2) Pitch his tent and sleep behind a K-Mart, with a permission slip from friendly Manager Tanya
1) Sit at the China Buffet for hours listening to a random selection of Britney, Avril Lavine, and unheard of 80s love songs (the sesame chicken is worth it)

Hope y'all have a great Sunday!
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Smoky Mountain Memories

There are many people to thank lately. But some thoughts about the past few days are in order, while they're still fresh... 

Tuesday morning threatened rain, and Tuesday afternoon delivered as we splish splash sloshed our way through the Appalachian foothills. The usual hum of tires on pavement was drowned out (literally too) by the steady snare-drum of grit and rainwater whipping against fenders. With squishy gloves we gripped our handlebars, each squeeze of the brake yielding a stream like the twist of a wash cloth. We were soaked through. Heavy sagging dripping shirts and similar spirits as we slogged out our 73.8 miles to Hot Springs. And yet it felt right. By mid-afternoon a creeping fog was settling low and thick between mountain peaks and spilling into pine valleys. A hazy drizzle weighed heavy. Smoke from a woodstove weaves gray through the raindrops and finds its way to my nose, the wet and sooty smell immediately familiar and appropriate. It's cold and dreary and no good for walking to get the mail much less biking, and somewhere someone is snug and warm watching rain trails glaze the window, rocking slowly, tea in hand. What do they think as they see two distorted neon-yellow masses whizz by? I long for their cabin comfort, but I know soon enough we'll be pulling up to the Inn and dismounting our soggy steel rigs, almost falling into the open embrace of Seany boy and allowing ourselves to succumb to the mystique of a place that has welcomed weary world-worn travelers like us for over 100 years. This place tells stories, and each creaky board hints of people and secrets long forgotten. The Sunnybank Inn remembers. Even as I step inside for only the second time ever, I am surrounded by a familiar warmth as though returning to a childhood home. And yet each corner is a mystery, each dark passage awaiting dust-stirring exploration. I breath deeply and submit willingly. It's been a long ride getting here, and I know I can expect to sleep well tonight provided the ghosts remain friendly.

Now we are pretty much down the mountain, in fact we're in the home stretch. Soon we'll hit the coast, dip our tires, and turn north. It will go fast, as things like this do. This is a time for reflection, and thinking back over the past 10 weeks I can't help but wonder if most of the adventure is behind us. The beauty of the country we've crossed is infinite, and we've soaked up all we could. But perhaps the 'ol bike trip has some adventure left for us yet. Each day, each destination is unknown except for how we'll get there. We ride east into the breaking day and daydream of what is to come and the stories we'll tell our grandchildren.

Thanks to Joy's parents for their generous support of our trip and our blog. Karen, your comments are always appreciated.

Thanks also to Kalin and Rob, two of the most genuine people I've met. I tried to channel the ghost of Paul Newman with my bagel this morning and thought of you.

Thanks to Dan and Malena for going out of their way to help us out, I'm really happy we got to reconnect. You two rock.

Happy belated 30th Imani!
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Friday, April 17, 2009

At least we saw the sign.

Lake James

Beautiful day again today coming out of Asheville. We went 50ish miles
to lake James state park along a wide varietybof roads. We thought
long and hard about doing the blue ridge parkway on this trip and when
we decided not to attempt it we got to ride on it for about 2 miles
today and it made me want to ride it someday on bike. We then hit
highway 70 for the rest of the day and that was mostly pretty crappy
to ride on except on section where we were on old 70 and it was closed
to motor vehicles and it was all downhill. It was glorious but did not
last nearly long enough. We plan to ride 70 for awhile so hopefully it
will improve.
Big thanks to the croppers for putting us up last night and taking us
to dinner. I lived in Asheville for a few months 10 years ago and
though it was strange to be back, I think the passing of time has let
me appreciate the town more than when I was there. I look forward to
spending more time in this area, it really is beautiful.
Our sponsors today and many days to come are my wonderful in-laws.
Dave and Karen are somewhere out on the ocean but I know at some point
they will read this, they are two of our most loyal followers, even
from a ship thousands of miles away. Thanks dave and Karen!


joe

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Out of the springs

It is way too late to be writing an entry. It is amazing how the time
flies when trying to rest. We rode 40ish miles into Asheville NC
today. It was hard to leave the good food and good people of hot
springs. Sean met us in Asheville and we hit up a couple of bike shops
before playing some disc golf. It was an amazing day. Perfect temp,
nice ride along the river and over the mtns, and topped it off with
pizza with Dan and Malena Cropper, some folks brian and I know from
geneseo days. We are staying with them tonight and then heading out
across NC tomorrow.
Big thanks to the honorable Rob and Kalin for sponsoring our time in
Hot Springs, we got some euchre in and ate and ate and ate. Also a big
thanks to seanny boy and the fine folks at the sunnybank inn. If you
go to hot springs you got to go to the inn. And finally happy birthday
to Rupert! Hope you had a good one!
Night from Asheville


joe

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Into NC

Hot Springs NC. I first walked into Hot Springs almost exactly 10
years ago. The Appalachian trail runs right thru town. I believe I
enjoyed biking into town a little more but it is always good to see
hot springs. My good frien from college works at a great Inn here in
town so we were on a mission to get here and enjoy the great food,
good company, and of course beds. It's hiker season and the inn works
more like a hiker hostel during this time. We had dinner with 10
hikers and it was fun to hear their stories. We had a really rainy day
biking, along with a flat tire on my bike and a flat tire on the bike
of a women we met in Newport TN. So it was a long day in the rain,
which made our arrival at the inn even sweeter. Sean even treated us
to a trip to the springs which hopefully will do the body good.


joe

Monday, April 13, 2009

Maryville 100

We didn't know when we would do it, but we pretty much figured we couldn't ride across the country without fitting a century in there somewhere. For those who don't know a century in the context of biking refers to a 100 miler, a long ride for most anyone even without bags, and hills, and traffic, and wind. Needless to say we battled all four, but to tell ya the truth it was a pretty terrific day. We awoke to a stiff wind helping to dry our tents from last night's rain. Reports warned of morning showers developing into thunderstorms by afternoon, and we didn't have high hopes for getting too many miles in (before finding the nearest cheap motel). But we pedaled on, into a gusty wind, around some minor cities, and down busy shoulderless road. When we stopped for lunch neither of us were even sure how far we'd gone. But after doing the math, we were 35 miles in and it was only 1 o'clock. We studied the map and found the town of Maryville way up the road near Knoxville. "How far is it?," Joe asked. "Mmm, 60ish miles" I answered. "Man, if we can even get within spitting distance of Maryville tonight, we can probably make Hot Springs tomorrow." I let Joe's suggestion simmer a bit. Hot Springs is 75 miles from Maryville, totally doable, as it were. And man it would be nice to buy a day just in case we wanna spend it down the road. "Well," I said finally, "if we get to Maryville that's about 90ish miles. There's no way I'm quitting at 90 if we get there, so..maybe today we do our century?" We thought a bit. Then, without saying anything out loud, we quickly wolfed the last bite, slurped the last sip, and threw on our gear. We weren't sure if we'd make it all the way, but we were gonna give ourselves every chance we could. And as I lay to sleep on the carpeted basement floor of a kind family's home tonight, I wonder if my belt will be tighter tomorrow, now that I've got one more accomplishment under it. ; )Hot Springs, NC here we come.
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Sunday, April 12, 2009

Rainy Night..er, Near Georgia

Three states, one day. An early start is a good one for us, especially after drying out dew-soaked tents. The sun is out, and miles await. After a long wake-up climb out of camp this morning, we rode the ridge of Sand Mountain until finally dropping down the other side. Lunch in Georgia, as though we we had the luxury of going anywhere but just really liked the atmosphere in this particular Wendy's. Then a nice twenty miles or so to Chatanooga, Tennesee. I hear they have a really nice Wal-Mart Supercenter there--why not! Local biker (Chip) helped pass the ride time and gave us some great route advice. A relaxing spin through empty downtown gave us a neat look at the old brick and new hip buildings co-mingling in this border town. Definitely have to come back and check it out. But now the priority is campsite, and we finally roll by a large church and house complex with lots of grass. The place has a nice look, and the folks we meet are as friendly as we hope. Eventually permission is granted, and we set-up at the building's back to avoid wind. Shelter, check; now food. An Asian buffet, you say? How can we say no! It just so happens that its rated #1 in town! We eat and drink and we are satisfactorily full if not quite merry. As we linger outside the nylon-and-poles we call home, it begins to sprinkle. A few drops on us, some dull taps on the tent tops, and we know it's only the beginning. The report says tomorrow we'll be wet--we may wake early again, but there'll be no drying off. As we fall in and zip up, the tapping becomes more steady, and soon it's an official soaker. Nice to sleep to, but biking's gonna be a slog. Oh well, it's bound to happen from time to time--after all, it is spring.
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Birthday wishes

Forgot to mention in my last post that we also had to do some off-
roading yesterday. See pic of brian, google maps did not know that the
road stopped a little sooner than we would have hoped.

Also forgot to send birthday wishes to Marilyn. Hope you had a great
day. I'm gonna try calling tonight. And finally birthday wishes to
Jake Spaulding courtesy of Woody.

Tough one

yesterday was a tough one. After the tornado induced rest day we were
hoping to make good time to chatanooga TN. Leah and Stan dropped us
off at the edge of Huntsville on the road we thought we would take all
the way to TN. Well once we took a good look at the road we realized,
there was no way it was safe to bike on. Four lane divided highway
with zero shoulder and a lot of big trucks. So after much talk and
some advice from the folks at the gas station ( Sam and jeff) we
started on some back roads. It was pretty riding but it was not at all
direct and even with the drive out of town we didn't get nearly as far
as we would hope. Throw in a flat tire for me and a nice big, steep up
hill and you got yourself a crusher of a day. Got better at the end
with lots of nice folks in Scottsboro. Helpful advice from the guys at
the firehouse and tons of nice people at the tripple r BBQ. This is
where we ended up for the night, Angie the asst. Manager not only
bought us dinner but let us stay in the lot next door.
Really wet this morning but it looks like the sun will be out most of
the day. More rain coming tonight and tommorow. Stupid spring. Happy
Easter, hope everyone has a great day and a big thanks to Leah,
Bernie, debbie, stan, and the kids. We had a good time.


joe

Friday, April 10, 2009

Safety First

After hearing about the threat of severe weather throughout last night, we wisely chose to linger this morning and see how things developed. Good thing we did--we would have been riding right into the path of a nasty set of storms that yielded several tornados and lots of damage. As it turned out, we and our wonderful hosts made it through unscathed, and we even got to spend some exciting time in the underground shelter which really gave us the full experience. Then the storm passed and all was well and quiet. The evening was a bit cool but otherwise clear and lovely, and we caught a little youth baseball and enjoyed some ballpark food, which put a nice cap on the day. A nice day off, even if Mother Nature had to pull out the big guns to scare us into resting.
Thanks to the one and only Cristy Sorenson for sponsoring our unexpected day off. As a Team In Training Alum, I know she would tell us that we need to rest to let our bodies rebuild. You're right Cristy, but despite your generous sponsorship and good advice I'm gonna give you the guilt trip for not doing a full marathon. Aw just kidding, you're the best Cristy. Tomorrow hopefully we'll be back on the bikes, talk to ya from--well, we'll see won't we. Night.
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Over The River And Through The Woods, pt.2

Through the woods...

The Trace is teeming with history, and passing through her green gates and riding the twisting labyrinth beneath her looming oak and pine is to yield not just to another place but a separate time. From the Native Americans whose footsteps carved the first trail, to the Kaintucks who trampled a road wide and deep on their way home from downriver destinations, to the postal riders who continued using the Trace even when no others would, this road has stories. Armies have marched up and down her spine, and battles fought in her woods and fields; fortunes of people and nations won and lost. As I hum down smooth empty tarmac, I am aware of all this--somewhat. The fact is that this day and this road are just too perfect to describe, beautiful in a way no picture can capture. My every sense is pricking from (and for) the variegation of stimuli, each one in coming through in high-def crispness. And with my body alert and manning the helm, my mind is free to wander carelessly and easily. I'm riding the breeze with the frantic butterfly that has become my wingman. I'm dismounting my steed (cleverly named "Greeny") and exploring the overgrown path, hidden in plain sight from the eyes of speedier riders. Is this where de Soto buried his Spanish-claimed gold?

Just as my shovel sounds a glorious thud, spiking firmly into what can only be a chest brim full of heavy gold, I'm jolted back to the now. Greeny's steel limbs are alive and shivering steadily, his nostrils are flared. He has caught a scent on the wind, something reminding him of his freedom. We are starting downhill. I instinctively lean forward, slide my thighs back and squeeze the seat between them. My hands re-grip; I spit with intent. I'm ready. I slam on the shifter and bang into high gear, racing down the steepest section of track. As we level out I cruise through the valley, then--at just the right time--I pedal hard and downshift one, then another, then one more. All the while my legs spin feverishly, each muscle showing what it can do, thrilled to have the challenge it had been craving. As I slow to an easy push near the opposite peak a skylight opens in the foliage above me. I notice my legs don't burn. My quads are taught but responsive. I look down from high on the tunnel of dripping leaves and spanish moss before me, rolling rises and dips and delicious curves snaking infinitely into the distance. The sun is bright overhead, there's plenty of daytime left. I realize I'm smiling and wonder if I ever stopped. I place my palm on my helmet and slide it slightly forward. Then I lean in and once again begin to race, having no deadline or need to hurry, just because in this pure moment I've abandoned all control to my inner kid, and he knows a playground when he sees it. We fly down the Trace together, happy.

Thanks to my Granny and Gramps for their tremendous support of our trip, I am a very lucky grandson and I know it. The 9th was also my Grandma White's birthday, she passed away last April. If you are fortunate enough to have grandparents in your life, call them today and tell them you love them. Don't wait. That's your weekend homework assignment from two guys on bikes.
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Weather and In the News

Well, we again are watching the weather as strong storms are in our area but we are lucky enough to be in the comforts of my friend Leah's home. Not sure if we will get any miles in today but we will have to be ok with that.

So yesterday when we were leaving the RV park, Jane the hostess (thanks for all your help Jane!)came over with her cell phone in hand and said, "Here, one of you guys talk to the paper." She gave the phone to Brian and the next thing you know Bernie, from the paper, is at the park taking our picture.
Currently we are on the front page of their web site. We need to go try and find a hard copy of the paper.

Here is the Link

The blog address is wrong but hopefully people who are interested will find their way to our site. The folks at the RV park were great. Randy the owner was very helpful with how to get across town and he gave us our money back. It will be fun to come back to a lot of these places with some more time on my hands because there is just too much to see and do.

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Into Bama

Well we are off the Trace and heading towards Madison AL where my
friend Leah,from high school, lives. Can't remember the last time I
saw her, I want to say 12 years.
Need to say happy birthday to Katy Taylor and Loren Kinczel. You've
got an amazing friend in Sarah Woodside who sponsored today in your
honor.
The pic is from where we camped last night. We woke up to a ranger
telling us that 200 first graders were on their way and we were in the
way.
Night from Alabama.

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Good company!

We've been enjoying some good company on the Trace and have failed to
say thanks to some folks. Mainly my dad and step-mom (Cary and
Marilyn). Not only did they host us and put up with us in phoenix but
they sponsored a huge number of days. Thank you both so much for
always encouraging my adventures. Big thanks also to brian's granny
and gramps who also have a number if days coming up.

The pic is of Paul, diane, and skip. Folks from grand rapids Michigan
that we have spent the last two nights hanging out with. Great company
and two fun nights with great camp fires. We wish them the best of
luck on the rest of the Trace.

We also met Ryan and mandy who are REALLY touring the country. Their
websit is withinreachmovie.com and everyone should go check out their
mission and amazing tour. I'll only tell you they are going to be on
the road for a year and a half. We had lunch with them at donna's who
was the greatest road side cheerleader. She flagged us down and tried
to convince us to stay the night because Ryan and mandy were already
staying. We settled on lunch but it was really hard to leave her warm
house and good food. We assured her we would be back when we come back
to the Trace.

I'm going into a food coma. We are at a pizza hut Buffett so I'm
stopping here. Night from Tupalo!

Sunday, April 5, 2009

The wonders of the trace

Two great days on the Trace and it's a shame we aren't doing the whole
thing but it gives us a reason to come back with more friends. We've
met groups from Vermont and Michigan down on the trace getting their
first riding of the year in and they have been good company and we may
even get to play some euchre.
Also met some great folks at our campground tonight who were up for
great convo and gave us beer, chicken, and fire wood.
The pic is of a cypress swamp that is much better in person.
Got to go to bed. Night from the Trace.

Over The River And Through The Woods, pt. 1

We crossed the Mississippi and into the state of the same name sometime after 10, but it felt much later. We were excited to start on the Natchez Trace and the sun had long been up, bidding us make haste. As we rode the long bridge uphill out of Louisiana, I looked down past steel beams at the mighty river, "The Father Of Waters." It was the color of milk chocolate, churning and rushing quick but quite quietly past the concrete abutments that carved the clay-water creating a reverse wake, and noiselessly whispering stories --of not just the dawn and days of American glory, and tragedy, and hand-dug dirty life, and death, oh no. This river whispers stories from the dark corners of time, stories of the origin of all, and of itself.

As the pavement turned around on itself and we crossed the first parkway bridge, we immediately found another world. A verdant bank spread deep to each side of our open empty road, and the forest and birdsounds and the harmless perfection of it all was as inviting and innocent as a church picnic. We smiled, and rode eagerly into the slowly unfolding spring woods...

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The Natchez Trace Parkway

Saturday, April 4, 2009

The Mississippi

It's crazy that we are heading into mississippi today. Thursday
morning we woke up at the Evan's household And turned on the weather.
A big storm was heading our way so Stephanie made breakfast and we sat
it out. It was quick and powerful, evan breaking the flagpole out
front of the church. But it was all over by 11:30 and we still wanted
to make the 50 miles to Alexandria so we hit the road and had the best
tail wind of the trip. Making the miles role by super quick. Suprising
to me was the rolling hills of western Louisiana. Nothing huge but not
as flat as I had imagined. We went to a bike shop in Alex and then
headed over the river (forgot the name) to Pineville to try and find a
place to eat and camp. We ended up throwing up our tents in the back
of a walgreens, which meant we had an early rise yesterday. With the
early start the 67 miles to the river/border was nice and the eastern
part of the state lived up to my flatness expectations. Today we head
onto the Natchez trace parkway and lots of history.
Want to say good luck to my Crown peeps today with the conference.
It's gonna be great.
Happy Saturday!

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Good things in Louisiana

Well we made it out of Texas and we are 16 miles into Louisiana and already we are loving it. We met Stephanie at the Leesville Dairy Queen with 4 kids in tow and they had seen us riding into town. They struck up a conversation with us and the next thing you know we are eating Jambalaya and Brownies at their house with her husband Tri. We will write more about this great family later but right now I'm using their computer to post the Phoenix to Austin pics which haven't been working. So here ya go.

Phoenix to Austin

Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Adios, Tejas

Tomorrow we (plan to) bike out of Texas, and I can't help but feel that this is the end of an era. Texas has been more unexpected and magnificent than I ever could have imagined, and despite my excitement to start a new state, I have to admit I'll be a little sad to leave the lone star land. We have been through desert and forest, city and pasture land, past cotton fields and through ghost towns. We stayed at a ranch, and biked through it all-- cold and dry and rainy and hot and humid and hilly as heck and flat as a pancake--all in the same state. It's only fitting, then, that we spend our last night here in an entirely new and pretty special environment, a goodbye treat from a big state that has already been darn good to us.

I had never heard of "The Big Thicket" before I saw it on our map. When I hear thicket I picture a brier patch or vine-overgrown hedge row. Texas' Big Thicket is actually a long narrow corridor of dense forest and waterways that is considered "one of the most biodiverse places in the world." I know, in Texas! The area has been protected since I believe the 70s, and from what I've read it's a veritable zoo in terms of the wildlife that you might see. Hundreds of different birds migrate and nest here, an equally large number of trees, countless flower and plant species--including 4 carnivorous ones--all 4 species of North American venomous snakes (?), and alligators. That's right, alligators. Our camp tonight is in a state park at the north end of this refuge, on a grassy point surrounded on 2.5 sides by picturesque BA Steinhagen Lake. Frankly, it's stunning, and we have pictures to prove it. Across the lake from our camp a ghostly cypress forest floats impossibly far from land, eerily suspended above still water, inviting of exploration. With only a canoe and a sense of adventure you could lose yourself here, perhaps literally, imagining that you are the first soul to witness the treasures you find around each bend in the river. Very tempting--but we have an adventure of our own to continue, with treasures yet unknown. And so we leave a place we've come to deeply appreciate as much for its people as for its aesthetics, and embark on the next leg of our journey--hopeful, yet skeptical, that any new place can possibly be as cool as Texas.
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Our site

It's a beut Clark!

Tonights campground

Baseball season

Pic from the game we caught the other night.

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Chasing Spring

Texas continues to surprise and impress me. Today's ride was nothing short of idyllic, from the rolling pastures with grazing sheep and cows, to the endless blue sky and warming sun. Spring has arrived in eastern Texas, and today she wore her Sunday best. This, my friends, is bluebonnet country. For once the seemingly mortal enemies The Right Place and The Right Time have made concessions and agreed to meet with us and each other on the roads between Bernham and New Waverly. Recently it has rained, and now something fresh and living is pushing or crawling out of every crack and crevice. Sweeping fields of wildflowers, not just blue (although that's the overwhelming hue) but splashed with red and yellow and orange, are spread out to each side of my empty country road. Butterflies race in front of and by me with chaotic energy; they feel familiar, like old friends. Immersed in this pastoral landscape I feel like a kid racing with ease down a dirt road between fields of summer corn. My pedalstrokes are effortless. I have lost myself in all around me, each sense heightened more than the one before. The last thing on my mind is biking, except when my trailing thoughts lead me to recognize how lucky I am to be here, in this moment. I am thankful, then immediately slip back out of touch and into the world of innocence that has permitted me to pass through and soak up. Tonight I crawl into bed dripping with the golden dew of spring.
Thanks to my lifelong friend Adam Norton for sponsoring today, you picked a good one old buddy.
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Last couple of days

Quick list of cool things from the last couple of days.
-state park road that was only a little bigger than a golf cart path
that was super fun to bike on
- biking thru miles and miles of antiques being sold from huge tent
cities. Only happens twice a year and it was crazy
-woman offering us a place to stay in Houston and giving us some fudge
-meeting Norman and his wife who talked to us about bike touring, gave
good advice on where to camp, and bought us cheese, crackers and wine
- watching a Brenham TX high school baseball game
- meeting Jessie and gang and getting some waters at Drifters (a place
we wish we could have spent all night at)
- leaving Texas hill country
- biking thru the blue bonnets

I'm sure I'll remember something else or someone else as soon as I hit
send but that is all for now. Night

joe

Nice riding.

Blue Bonnets

Saturday, March 28, 2009

Train, Train Go Away

Tonight we find ourselves camped in the shadows between a baseball shed and a fence, the kind with barbed wire on top. The fence is there to (presumably) keep teenagers and other stupid people from running gleefully up the steep embankment to the welcoming railroad tracks. I kept looking at this fence as I set up tent, wondering why in my hometown it was so easy to just mosey on up to the steel rails without care and casually place a few pennies on the track to have a few copper pancakes later. Then, as if it had heard my silent question, the train answered. We could hear the whistle blast well before we could see it, and soon it was grating and screeching metalically just above our heads. This was about an hour ago, and that was the first of three that have passed since we arrived. Now don't get me wrong, trains are cool, and it's hard to complain about "free" camping, but after witnessing the regularity of the railroad 'round here, I'm beginning to underdstand the benefit of paying for my own lunch. I also understand why they built this fence.
Thanks to today's sponsor, Carly again. Don't worry, we don't blame you if the trains keep us up all night, Carly (I swear I just heard a distant whistle). Carly enjoys special status as the only person I know to leave an Old 97s concert early. That I do blame you for. I hope you're all enjoying a fun-filled train-free Saturday night, talk to ya soon.
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Friday, March 27, 2009

Back in the saddle again, again

One would think that after a week in Austin with no bike riding,
getting back on today would have felt good... Maybe like going home...
Well guess what... My butt still hurts, my knees feel worse, I've got
a weird thing going on with my shins from walking around hard wood
floors with no shoes, my elbows hurt for the first time, and my hands
ached today. Good Times! I actually figured this would be the way
today would feel but I'd hoped I was wrong. Taking a long vacation from
things is tough. Think about how painful going back to work can be
after a long vacation. Hopefully, after tomorrow my body will remember
that it is biking to new York. I realized I didn't post a link to the
pics, they are up but on my iPhone it is hard to post the link. If you
click on the link on the right of the blog that says joe's picassa
page, you should see the phoenix to Austin album. I think they go mine
than brians.
Big thanks to Carly White for getting us back on the bike today with
her sponsorship. Hopefully carly's office still plays the "where are
the guys" game. We love the idea of folks reading our blog instead of
doing work. Carly and I perfected those skills while working
together. ;) we did some good work but made sure we had lots of fun
doing it. So HI to carly's co-workers too. Be nice to cwhite, she's a
good egg!
Thanks too, to the folks at roadhouse in bastrop tx for lettin us camp
behind your restaurant and your burgars are super delicious. Night


joe

On The Road Again

Like life and all good things in it, our time in Austin has been too short and went too fast. Tomorrow morning we once again mount our trusty tuned-up Truckers and ride determinedly Eastward. The next leg of our journey begins, and only time (which slows to a numbing grass-grow pace the moment our butts hit our saddles) will tell what adventures await. Of course we'll do our best to capture each one through language and lens for you, our devoted readers. For now, I leave you with a short poem about my old friend (and college roommate) Tim. Happy belated birthday, ol' buddy, and forgive me for not writing this "thank-you" a few days ago, but every second with my Nicolina is precious, and I couldn't spare even a moment. I'm sure you understand.

A Timerick for Lim:
There once was a fellow named Tim,
Who never did go to the gym,
He ate like a pig,
But never got big,
In fact, he remained rather slim.

He liked this place called "The Corral,"
And we went every week without fail,
The burgers and fries
Were the typical size,
But the chicken wings came by the pail!

And Timmy, he'd eat two or three,
Which was 'bout one or two more than me,
But when we were through,
He still weighed One Five Two,
And I still weighed Two Thirty-Three.

See, Tim was a good-looking guy,
A twinkle he had in his eye,
He dressed rather well,
And he had a nice smell
Cuz his armpits were usually dry.

And Oh! Did the lasses love Tim,
From Lauren to Jackie to Kim,
Had he wanted to try,
He need merely say 'hi,'
And they'd cater to his every whim.

But Tim was a rare bird, it's true,
Both good-looking and trustworthy, too,
Any girl he took out,
Would be home without doubt
Twenty minutes before her curfew.

And guys liked him almost as well,
Even when you first met you could tell,
That Tim was a friend
Who'd be there to the end,
And a rare pal like that is just swell.

And though we dint always agree,
The truth is that Timmy and me,
Were once pretty close,
And still are I s'pose,
In that cool way old pals can be.

When I next see my roomie from past,
It will be as though no time has passed,
We'll catch up over beer,
And we'll laugh til we tear,
Thinking back on a time that dint last.

And such is what I can recall,
When I look back and think of it all, We had good times and rough,
(Being roommates is tough,
Especially with dorm rooms so small!)
And though we don't often talk or hang out, I'm just glad I still know him at all.

Gnight from Austin

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Alex B and the bats!

Big thanks and a happy birthday to the most powerful woman in Santa
Cruz, Alex B. I've been meaning to say congrats on Alex's new digs for
awhile now but haven't gotten around to it. Looking forward to playing
done wii and bbqing. Hope u had a great birthday.

Went and saw the Austin bats tonight and they were amazing. If I lived
here I would have to go watch all the time. It us the USA's largest
urban bat colony and when the babies are born in June it will number
1.5 million. They come out for ever and are a solid line for miles.
It's crazy! Yet another reason to add Austin to your list but to see
the bats you have to come between march and October.

More pics tomorrow. I promise.



(Some video I took of the bats)

Monday, March 23, 2009

Down time in Austin


First off, if you have never been to the city of Austin. I highly recommend you come for a visit. It is a great city and if you love live music it is a must. We were lucky enough to catch it at the tail end of South by Southwest Festival, so it was even more musicafied then normal but it isn't called the Live Music Capital of the World for nothing. But besides the music, it has great food, great outdoor escapes and many other fun sightseeing adventures. It will be very hard to leave here on our bikes on Friday and even harder to say goodbye to the ladies on Thursday, but we won't think about that right now.

Need to send Happy Birthday Wishes to one of our best sponsors - who has been our sponsor since St. Patrick's day and was one of the first people to jump on the Sponsorship program. Tim Lynah is one of the great people that came into my life in Geneseo, NY. He was one of my residents but quickly became a friend. Tim was part of one of my favorite road trips. He, the Holtz brothers and I went to Cedar Point Ohio for some Roller Coaster madness. Looking forward to doing the 10 year reunion trip in a couple years. Timmy - hope you are having a great birthday. We will drink one for you tonight in Austin.

Photos from Phoenix to Austin will be up tomorrow.

Saturday, March 21, 2009

South by southwest

Memphis Blues Night. Good times.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Road Magic


Can you believe that we haven't set up our tents for the last three nights? We have been cashing in on some travellin' karma we've racked up over the last six weeks (today's our anniversary by the way). After we reluctantly winded our way out of the Twisted J Ranch two days ago we headed toward Boerne, TX (pronounced "Bernie"--ya got me) with only a vague idea where we might stay the night. Sitting at a Chevron picnic table we started calling local hotels and motels (and yes, Holiday Inns) to see if we could find a cheap St. Patty's Day bed. Well Joe got on the phone with a local B and B booking agent and told him our whole deal. Turns out the guy, Mike, was also the owner of a really nice looking place called The Crescent Inn, which was right across the street from our picnic table, but by the look of it quite obviously out of our price range. Well it also turns out Mike's brother in law biked from Brooklyn to Cali, and a wave of the road-magic wand later and we're staying in a terrific room at a cool old western-type hotel for half-price. No tax and free breakfast to boot! I'll tell ya there may be something to that luck o' the Irish thing (everyone's Irish on March 17th, right?). We enjoyed a second night of great sleep in a row and rolled outta town at the crack o' noon today, absolutely sure we'd be bedding down in the ol' sleeping sack at some RV park this evening. And we were fine with that.

But Mr. Road Karma had other plans for us. As Joe came to a screeching halt halfway down a hill enroute to Wimberly this afternoon, I looked over to see an unexpected site. It was a sign for a Disc Golf Ranch. That's right kids an entire Ranch devoted to disc golf. Well we got to the gate and to our disappointment the ranch was closed for some revamping. But two golfers noticed us and came over to explain the situation. Turns out that they are both pros on the disc golf tour. And we didn't know it then, but Jay and Des turned out to be just about the coolest people you could hope to meet. They invited us back to their place for the night, and we enjoyed one of the best evenings of the trip, drinking a great locally brewed Porter and talking about everything from backpacking to BBQ. And of course disc golf. We will sleep in beds for a third night in a row, and we'll add another set of names to the list of incredibly friendly and generous people we've met on this trip--many of whom happen to live in West Texas.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

The view

Our digs

Read the post below to find out how we got this house for the night.